Over 0 down the drain..! Subscribe To Fight & Stop Car Theft! www.youtube.com MyFirst Car Audio SPL Bass Installation (1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier (1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier (3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs (2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs (2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors *Same 200 amp H/O Alt* My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit (1) Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – BEST Equalizer (2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters (2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers (2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers (1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp / Diablo Audio Technologies = 3000 + Watts RMS @ 1 ohm (1) Ascendant Audio Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer (1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz @ 6cft (1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator Big 3 / 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsunami Power Wire Make Em’ Know Technology! / BassHeads UNITE!
Please Rate & Crank The Volume =) www.youtube.com This video took a long time to edit, but it was worth every minute – Thanks For Watching Guys! **Enjoy the Music? HUGE Thanks To My Man Cultivata ! ~ Biggest Thanks! Specail Thanks to: UMASS Lowell Soundstream USA T3 Audio…
Ever wonder ” What do I need for a good loud car stereo system? Want to know what to buy ? Well here’s my first audio set-up . . . www.youtube.com Walking through, and talking about the different components of my stereo…. What you’ll need to be loud – Follow Me On- * twitter.com * * www.myspace.com * Pioneer DEH-P3000ib Clarion Eqs746 (1) Alpine MRP-M500 (1) Alpine MRP-M1000 (1) Orion HP124- ll @ 2 ohms (2) Kicker 07CVR412 – S @ 4 ohms Orion Cobalt 5.25’s Polk DB 5×7’s Polk DB 6×9’s Big Three in 0 Gauge MCR 200 amp H/O Alternator (2) Power Akustic PCX’5 Caps Want Crazy Ass Bass? Look no further. A few of these upgrades will makes any system insanely loud. Power, distribution, monoblocks, woofers, tweeters, low pass filters, high pass filters, subsonic filters, equalizers, epicenters, bass boards, power stations, regulators, alternators, converters, inverters, ground loop isolators, passive crossovers, active crossovers, 0 gauge cable, big 3 / three upgrade, dynamat, receiver, passive radiator, BassBox, ANL, AGU, MAXI Fuses, The works.
DIY with Mike Stiers www.maxxsonics.com So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come. Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3. THE BIG 3 The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this …
This video will explain everything. Complete Big 3 Upgrade Installation Advice & Tutorial * More Q’s? * – www.youtube.com **Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom** ~ EXO Written Step By Step Directions: Step 1. Buy Battery Terminals That Fits 0 gauge Power Cable Step 2. Find A Safe Chasis Ground Step 3. Grind Paint Off Chasis Area Step 4. Connect Chasis To Negative Battery Step 5. Find Engine Block Ground Step 6. Connect Engine Block To Negative Battery Step 7. Connect Positive Alternator To Positive Battery Step 8. Charge System Capacitors ( If Needed ) Step 9. Replace Fuse Step 10. Play Loud Subwoofer Bass Songs On Your New Stereo! Mike From Maxxsonics: 1. Front ground is best on strut tower bolt which goes directly to your actual frame of the vehicle rather than the flimsy piece of metal most people use. (sand well) 2. Ground in the rear? of the vehicle at the strut tower bolts rather than the flimsy metal as well. (sand well) 3. Fuse the cable from your alt to your pos battery terminal just incase it shorts. Make sure it’s oxygen free copper! ~ Output High Voltage ~ Here we come!
